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The secret ingredient for building a Lincoln Park institution

By Courtney Tritch
Special to Inside
Lincoln Park is home to some of the most extraordinary architecture in Chicago. Many of these historic landmarks and glorious brownstones have a story to tell. This story is of one stoic three-story brownstone on Clark Street that rose to infamy on Feb. 14, 1929. That date forever rings in people's minds as the date of the St. Valentine's Day Massacre, where the notorious shootout took place in a garage across the street from the beautiful brownstone at 2121 N. Clark St. Legend has it that this brownstone served as a lookout for Al Capone's henchmen and while bus tours continue to keep the legend alive, 2121 N. Clark has come a long way since that fateful day.
The building survived both that day and a terrible fire in 1971 to become the home of one of the best-known restaurants in Lincoln Park today. If you have ever driven down Clark St., you are undoubtedly familiar with the three-story brownstone in this story. It is the building that Chicago Pizza and Oven Grinder Company has called home since 1972.
In 1972, the building underwent a rebirth when it was purchased by an attorney named Albert H. Beaver. Beaver had an idea that would revolutionize Chicago pizza forever. His idea was to create a pizza pot pie. He formed his now-famous concoction in a ceramic bowl starting with cheese on the bottom, homemade sauce and fresh mushrooms in the middle, and homemade dough to top it off. Waiters bring this mouth-watering feat straight to your table and flip it over onto your plate. Now the crust is on the bottom and the cheese on top. Voila—pizza pot pie!
But Chicago Pizza and Oven Grinder is more than just pizza. Its menu includes such favorites as homemade salad dressings, Mediterranean bread, and oven grinders that are so big they're served on a serving platter! This homemade theme was almost immediately a success and during the 1970s, people would line up down the block all the way to the corner for a chance to feast on these scrumptious offerings. Cathy Gallanis, the comptroller at the restaurant, adds that they have a "tried and true menu. It's a place where you can be proud of the food. Some restaurants change chefs every night and, as a waitress, you never know what you're bringing to the table."
The quality of the food is just one of the things that keep people coming back, says Gallanis. She started out there as a waitress 20 years ago and has stuck with the company ever since. But her story is just one of many when it comes to longtime employees. If you've ever had to wait for a table on a busy night, you might know Parviz who has been the host since 1976—and being a host at Chicago Pizza and Oven Grinder is no ordinary job. It was decided early on that the acoustics of the restaurant just simply couldn't support having a host announce when your table was ready. As a result, when you come in, you'll give Parviz your name, but to your amazement, although you are amongst a throng of people, he won't write it down. And you'll be even more amazed when he shows up at your side later on to tell you your table is ready.
This personal touch is just one of the reasons Chicago Pizza and Oven Grinder has developed such a loyal neighborhood following over their 30 years in business. "People started coming here in the 1970s and now their kids come; waitresses work here now because their parents brought them to the restaurant when they were little. Our customers are extremely loyal," says Gallanis.
How does one develop such a loyal following? According to Gallanis, Chicago Pizza and Oven Grinder does not advertise and instead focuses on word of mouth. "The only way to get good word of mouth is to consistently serve a quality product. Because of our limited menu, we are able to keep excellent quality control over the food we serve. Everything we serve is made from original recipes right here in the kitchen and we've been using the same vendors and chefs for years."
They haven't changed the menu or the restaurant itself since Day 1 and according to Gallanis, that's exactly why they've been so popular. "People know that they will consistently receive good service and quality food when they come here. Even with the bad economy, we haven't taken much of a hit because when things are bad, people want to go somewhere they are comfortable. If they're watching their budget, people won't be as adventurous when they go out to eat. They want something they can be sure of."
Even though business is good, don't look for a Chicago Pizza and Oven Grinder popping up on your corner anytime soon. "We don't have any plans to expand right now because we are concerned that it would compromise what we do. We are one of the last truly unique places to eat in Chicago and we plan on keeping it that way for awhile," claims Gallanis.
But Chicago Pizza and Oven Grinder realizes that it does not exist in a vacuum; it is an important part of a thriving and evolving neighborhood. Being in business for 30 years is no easy feat. "We are very conscious of our part in the neighborhood. We take care of the building and we respect the street and our neighbors. Being a part of the Lincoln Park Chamber of Commerce has also helped us become more aware of our community by being able to work on local parking issues and knowing what businesses are coming in to the area," Gallanis said.
To those fledging businesses who hope to one day themselves become a neighborhood institution, Gallanis says, "Stick to what you know. Watch your bottom line. Be as consistent as possible. If it works, don't change it for the sake of change. If it worked once, it will keep on working."
- reprinted with permission from “The Source,” a newsletter of the Lincoln Park Chamber of Commerce